[pompeyfan]

Northern Star Voyage 26 Part Three

Monday 11th November 1968

At 0900 we were 22 miles from land and should pick the Cape Town pilot up at 1130. Passed the tanker Bergen Chief. At 1130 Table Mountain was in sight, and what a sight. We are now entering Cape Town. 1330 and we have now docked. Went ashore about 1400(2pm) and walked through the town and then through a park and saw a lot of grey squirrels, they are very tame. I carried on walking. At first, Robert Hailstones came with me. Robert was an elderly man from Scotland who I met on board. He was going all the way around. He wanted to catch a bus to the cable station to go up onto the Table Mountain. But I, being an Isle of Wighter who walked everywhere, decided to walk. So I carried on until I got up to the end of the road and houses. I could see the cable station, so made a beeline for it. Between the road where I was, and the cable station was a winding path through some scrub land. It was very hot, sunny and 82f. I was sweating by now, but that sweat got worse. I suddenly realised that I was not on the Isle of Wight climbing St Catherine’s Down, but in Africa where there are lots of creepy crawlies, poisonous ones. I hated spiders, even the harmless ones at home, and I was scared to death of snakes. We only had one poisonous snake at home, the adder but there could be far more here, and worse than the adder. So I then panicked a bit and walked a lot faster looking down for anything that crawled. I then came to some trees like a small copse, which I had to walk up through to get up to the road. As I was half way through these trees, I heard a hiss. A sharp cold shiver went down my spine. Looking to my right, now petrified I was face to face with what looked like an Anteater. I ran faster than I had ever done in my life, and uphill too until I got to the road, my heart beating six to the dozen. I then composed myself and walked along the road to the cable station.

I met Robert again on top of the mountain. For those of you who have been up Table Mountain, that cable car is very scary, something like 500ft sheer drop. But having had the scare I did, I was not too bothered, until I came back down! It was the most amazing view of my life. I saw some swifts and swallows, which had flown all the way from the UK for summer in Cape Town. They fly all the back to breed in the UK, during our summer. I came back down with Robert, and went back to the ship on the bus with him. The Union Castle liner Edinburgh Castle was in with us.

Tuesday 12th November 1968

Still in Cape Town, I went on a tour of Chapman’s Peak, round the mountain and saw some Weaver Birds more Swifts, Swallows, Cape Canaries and Turtle Doves. In the afternoon John Herbert picked me up from the ship. John used to visit neighbours, but emigrated to Cape Town. He was a friend of my brother. He knew I was coming, but the ship was late, and late leaving due to engine trouble. So John showed me around Cape Town. We also went swimming in Camps Bay that I saw from Table Mountain. The water was ice cold, despite it being boiling hot outside. It is cold because it is the Atlantic coming direct from the Antarctic. The sea only becomes warmer the other side of the Cape of Good Hope where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean.

John told me what the animal was I saw the day before. He said it would have been an Elephant Cat, and would not have gone for me. I had never heard of an Elephant Cat, and still not, so I wonder if John was right?. Has our South African members any ideas? But John told me I was in Africa now, not the Isle of Wight walking on the Downs. I stayed with him for the rest of the day, and had a meal at his house. He then drove me back to the ship, and came aboard with me. In those days, visitors were allowed. We sailed at midnight for Durban. The ship was due to sail at noon.

Wednesday 13th November 1968

17 miles off the southern coast of Africa, weather cloudy, sea slight swell. I had been told about the cape rollers, which we experienced before Cape Town, and still are hence the swell I suppose. Met a family emigrating to Australia. Due to engine trouble it looks like we could be late and will already reach Durban a day late. The man has a job to go to and may have to get off in Fremantle and fly to Sydney. His wife did not want to be there at all, and already home sick. Ewart and his wife were also not sure they were doing the right thing. They had just retired, and had never left home. Their son had emigrated to New Zealand, had a good job and was settled. But Ewart and his wife missed them so decided to sell up and move to NZ. Ewart said I was doing the right thing being young, but they had deep roots back home, but also missed their son and grandchildren.

Thursday 14th November 1968

4 miles off Port Elizabeth at 0900, wrote a few letters. Ray Dyer posted them for me via the crew system. Ray was chief carpenter on board, and also from the Isle of Wight. I played quoits with Robert Hailstones. Robert was 77 but very fit. He was in cabin A143. At 2100 we were 4 miles off East London. Union Castle serve both Port Elizabeth and East London weekly on their Cape run. I used to see one of them off St Catherine’s every Thursday at 1900 going out. Now, I am seeing them at the journey’s end and will no doubt see one in Durban having seen Edinburgh Castle in Cape Town.


Friday 15th November 1968

Arrived at Durban at 0500 a day late. The weather was cold and wet at 64f. I went on a tour of the valley of a thousand hills and saw Zulu warriors. We went down into the valleys descending 3,000ft in a course of 4 miles when we got to the bottom we were confronted with all the natives and their little mud huts, quite amazing. We then went over a Dam that supplies Durban.

Saturday 16th November 1968

We left Durban at 0700, just over a day late. Just as we left the berth, police and customs came along the quayside then got into a launch and came alongside. We anchored in mid harbour, and they took a man ashore with them. We then sailed. I just lazed around but also did some washing with help from the ladies, but getting more used to it now. Clock go forward 45 minutes tonight.

I will stop here for this episode as the ship heads across the Indian Ocean for the next nine days when all kinds of things happen from me getting into fancy dress to being told the ship would not be going to Auckland.